In this episode let us look at another famous Ram mandir in Tamil Nadu, India known as Ramaswamy temple. We have already briefly learnt about the Ram mandirs in Ayodhya, Bhadrachalam, Rameswaram, Nashik and Orchha earlier. After covering the mandir in Rameshwaram, this will be second from the state of Tamil Nadu which is from Kumbakonam. In total we had covered 5 Ram mandirs till now in India. As already mentioned, I knew nothing beyond the first two. India is a country with little exposure to outer world yet laced with many hidden gems. Unless these are exhibited and exposed to the world outside, the hidden treasure trove of wisdom cannot come to light. Moreover, with a population of 1.4 billion, these places hold greater significance in this time and age and any spotlight will definitely further the cause of these places. In addition, it will serve the purpose of this blog well as we are reminiscing about these greatest of places dedicated to Lord Rama in the entire breadth of the nation. There are hardly 10-15 grand temples dedicated to Ram in the country with 1.4 billion. This has to change. For instance, the ISKCON movement has established over 100 Lord Krishna temples across India. I knew many of these big ISKCON temples in Hyderabad than a famed Ram mandir in the very city. Since this epic, this idol and this ideal has been neglected for long, for India to reach a land of glory, the construction and dissipation of Rama story through his temples can be taken up. Even if there is mere 1 Ram mandir for every 1 crore population(which is still very less) there should be 140 grand Ram mandirs constructed across the country. We hardly have 10-15 at present. When these comes to life, the nation will be coming to a huge wake-up call and roars loud to ride along. The nation will also be restored to the best of its times where the rule of Rama will prevail in the foreseeable future. These holy and divine temples of Rama which dissipate the virtues of Rama and of Ramayana will be enough to energize the land in the right way. By virtue of this Rama consciousness movement which began last year with the construction of temple in Ayodhya, let us re-dedicate to establish at least 140 great spiritual centers on the holy name for the holy work uplifting the lives of everyone around the world. This is a great necessity and biggest contribution of our generation to humanity of present and future.
Looking at the Ramaswamy temple, it is located in the temple town of Kumbakonam in Tamil Nadu. The temple stands as a majestic tribute to Lord Rama, one of the most revered incarnations of Lord Vishnu. This temple is not only a spiritual haven but also a stunning example of Dravidian architecture, steeped in centuries of history and devotion. The temple was constructed during the Thanjavur Nayak period, specifically under the reign of King Achuthappa Nayak (1560–1614) and completed by Raghunatha Nayak (1600–1634). The visionary behind its construction was Govinda Dikshitar, the prime minister of the Nayak dynasty, who also built a commercial corridor connecting this temple to the nearby Chakrapani Temple. The temple is a textbook example of Nayak-style Dravidian architecture, featuring a three-tiered rajagopuram (main gateway tower), a sprawling granite enclosure wall, a maha mandapam with 64 exquisitely carved pillars, a sanctum sanctorum housing the divine family featuring all four brothers, Sita and Hanuman. Rama and Sita are depicted in a wedding pose, unlike other temples where they are seen separately. Couples and singles alike visit the temple seeking marital harmony or ideal partners, inspired by the divine wedding posture of Rama and Sita. Only three temples in India depict Rama with all his brothers—Ayodhya, Ayodhyapattanam, and Kumbakonam. This makes Ramaswamy Temple spiritually rare and deeply symbolic of family unity. Lord Rama is shown with the Vyakarna Mudra, a symbolic hand gesture associated with grammar and knowledge—highlighting his role as a divine teacher. In a rare artistic twist, Hanuman is portrayed holding a Veena instead of his usual mace. This symbolizes his devotion through music and his role as the first singer of the Ramayana. Each of the 64 intricately carved granite pillars, carved from a single stone in the maha mandapam narrates a scene from the Ramayana. These aren’t just decorative—they’re a visual epic, making the temple a living museum of storytelling. Local schools often bring students here to learn the Ramayana by observing the sculpted stories on the temple pillars. It’s a blend of spiritual and educational experience. The temple was commissioned by Govinda Dikshitar, the brilliant prime minister of the Nayak dynasty, not a monarch. His vision extended beyond politics into art, architecture, and devotion. The Ramaswamy Temple is more than a place of worship—it’s a living museum of devotion, art, and epic storytelling. Whether you're a spiritual seeker, a history enthusiast, or an admirer of architecture, this temple offers a deeply enriching experience.
Coming back to the epic, we are looking at the story of Ila. After hearing Lakshmana’s account of Indra’s purification through the Ashvamedha, Rama recounted the tale of King Ila, son of Prajapati Kardama, a mighty and righteous ruler of Bahlika who commanded fear and respect across the three worlds. During a spring hunt, Ila entered a sacred forest where Shiva, transformed into a woman to amuse Parvati, caused the entire area—and all within it—to become female. Ila, distressed, sought Shiva’s help, but was denied full restoration. Appealing to Parvati, he received a compromise: Ila would alternate monthly between male and female forms, each without memory of the other. As a woman, Ila became famed for unparalleled beauty.
In chapter 88, Buddha encounters Ila.
After hearing the tale of King Ila’s transformation from Rama, Lakshmana and Bharata were filled with wonder. With folded hands, they requested Rama to describe in greater detail how the king lived during his alternating months as a woman and as a man.
Rama then continued the account. When Ila was first transformed into a woman by the divine power of Shiva and Parvati, she spent her initial month in this new form accompanied by her female attendants. These attendants were formerly her male courtiers, who had also been transformed. As the most beautiful woman on earth, with lotus-petal-shaped eyes, Ila roamed the deep forest on foot, having renounced the use of carriages or mounts. She wandered among thickets, vines, and winding valleys, taking delight in her surroundings.
In that same forest region, near a mountain, there was a charming lake inhabited by many species of birds. At this lake resided Budha—the celestial being identified with the planet Mercury—who was the son of the Moon (Soma). Budha, radiant like the moon at its rising, was at that time absorbed in severe penance and spiritual practice. Known for his benevolence and compassion, Budha lived in seclusion within the waters of the lake, away from worldly distractions.
While wandering, Ila and her companions came to the lake and, in their play, disturbed its waters. Budha noticed her and was immediately struck by her unparalleled beauty. Overcome by the shafts of Kāma, the god of love, Budha felt his mind waver despite his ascetic discipline. He wondered in amazement who this woman could be, for never had he seen such radiance among the wives of gods, Nagas, Asuras, or Apsaras. He thought to himself that if she were unmarried, she would be an ideal match for him.
While Budha was still pondering, Ila and her companions moved away from the water’s edge. Eventually, Budha emerged from the lake and summoned them to his hermitage. The women obeyed his call, approaching respectfully and offering him salutations. Budha, speaking with courtesy, inquired about the beautiful lady—who she was, to whom she belonged, and what had brought her to this place.
The women replied in sweet voices that the lady was their mistress, that she had no husband, and that they wandered with her through the forest. Hearing their answer, Budha silently invoked a sacred science that allowed him to perceive the truth about beings and events. Through this spiritual insight, he learned the entire story of King Ila’s transformation from man to woman through the divine play of Shiva and Parvati.
Understanding what had happened, Budha addressed the women with a pronouncement. He told them that they were to dwell upon that mountainous region as Kimpurushis—mythical beings with human and animal characteristics. They were to make the mountain their permanent home, subsisting on roots, leaves, and fruits, and they would have Kimpurushas as their companions and consorts.
Accepting Budha’s command, the women—who were in fact the king’s former male attendants transformed along with him—took up their residence on the slopes of the mountain in this new form. Thus began the strange and fateful chapter in Ila’s dual-gender existence, his companions also sharing in a mystical transformation decreed by divine will and affirmed by a celestial sage.
This concludes chapter 88 of Uttara Kanda where we had seen Ila meeting Budha. The Budha in Ramayana should not be confused with Gautama Buddha of Buddhism. While Budha is a celestial being, often considered a deity or sage, and is part of Hindu cosmology, the latter is a historical figure. Budha is described as the son of Chandra (the Moon God) and is associated with the planet Mercury in Hindu mythology. Ila wanders as a woman and comes across Budha who is in severe penance. Budha was attracted to the beauty of Ila in woman form and pronounced them all to dwell in the mountainous region. We can look at the birth of Pururavas, son of Ila and Budha in subsequent chapters.
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